Johnny’s Selected Seeds (www.johnnyseeds.com)
has the following information about growing pumpkins and winter squash (edited
for
CULTURE |
Fertile,
composted, well-drained soil is best. |
FROM TRANSPLANTS |
Sow
in 3- |
DIRECT SEEDING |
Sow
in late spring after frost danger when soil is warm, minimum |
OTHER PLANTING SCHEMES |
Some
growers "check plant" in rows |
DISEASES |
Downy
mildew may occur in cool, damp weather, powdery mildew in hot, droughty
periods and in late summer. Consult your agrochemical dealer for specific
fungicide control. |
SPRING COLD PROTECTION |
Floating
row covers will provide some frost protection and add warmth for vigor and
earlier harvest. |
INSECT PESTS |
Protect
young plants with floating row covers. This has not been a large problem
in |
FALL FROST |
Frost
kills leaves and can thus facilitate harvest; however, it can also damage
fruits and cause spotting and poor storage. Mature fruits can usually
tolerate 1 and sometimes 2 or 3 light frosts without substantial damage.
Sprinkler irrigation wards off moderate frost damage to fruits. |
HARVEST |
Before
heavy frost, cut stems at least |
CURING |
Cure
in the field to dry and toughen skins by exposing fruits to sun for 5-7
days or so if weather permits, covering in the evening if frost is likely.
An indoor method of curing is to expose squash to 27- |
STORAGE |
Store
at 10- |
DAYS TO MATURITY |
From
direct seeding; subtract about 14 days if transplanting. This is quite
variable from year to year depending on the weather. |
DIRECT SEEDING RATES |
Some
Swedish farmers are sowing about 13,400 seeds per hectare with about 1.5- |